The Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda


We know from a distance the catastrophic events in the Mioned and Nyos lakes in Cameroon, where in the 80s some gaseous emanations of CH4 and CO2 ended the lives of many people. Under the surface of the 2700 square kilometers of the Kivu LakeThere are 65 cubic kilometers of methane gas along with 256 square kilometers of carbon dioxide, much more than in the previous ones, trapped under the pressure of water and land. If these gases were released from their depths, they would spread a deadly cloud over more than 2 million Africans who inhabit the lake basin. We are in a lake of mysteries, a mortal lake ...

The alarm rings at the "hotel of horrors" That has left us in dust. The night has been somewhat complicated. Juve and Ruth had an eternal continuous drip in the service. Isaac and Paula had a man locked in the heater, a ghost that "screamed" every few minutes. The abrupt bathroom door opened and closed by itself. And to top it off, Isaac and Juve woke up continuously thinking that it was dawn ... not to mention the esparto mattress.

Almost wishing it, and with "more desire to have breakfast than ever" after dinner last night, we shot out of the rooms. He breakfast was edible, which was already a success since at least it did not include pony meat, the one that always accompanies us at some point during the trips, here called Muhabura Pony

The day began in the Volcanoes National Park. Today we will not see gorillas, although there are people who see them 3 and 4 times. Today we will try to "hunt" golden monkeys.

Volcanoes N.P. It is not much like Ruhija. Here everything is done too touristy, which causes you to lose the authenticity of another place. Possibly, gorillas can be seen more clearly, something to target future travelers if they intend to see them with less vegetation, but the crowding of tourists and how they have organized everything takes away a certain charm.

Today we do not go 8 people, the group is composed of about 20, among them some seemed taken from the best excursion of the imserso, so the pace is quite slow and with many stops although we must recognize that today we can come very well.

We first enter between crops to later face a kind of forest

Finally we reach the area where we want to divide these nice little animals, a beautiful bamboo forest (which to some extent reminds us of the one seen in JAPAN) that the experience is well worth

And there we see them. They almost make no noise. They jump and jump from branch to branch above our heads. They are a family of more than 100 Golden Monkey members.

He Golden Monkey is a kind of old world monkey that is found in the Virunga Mountains Central African volcanoes, including 4 national parks (Mahinga, Des Volcanoes, Kahuzi Virunga and Biega) and inhabits highland forest, especially near bamboo forests

It seems to be a subspecies of the blue monkey, but this one is beautiful with a kind of orange gold back and in skirts of the same color. Inhabits with the mountain gorilla themselves in this area

They eat mainly leaves and fruits, which is where we found them this morning.

The penalty that remains is to know that they are in danger of extinction and it is one of the most threatened species in Africa, because we are destroying their habitat, as we do with everything. The experience has been most pleasant, and it has only taken us 1 hour to get to see them

He Total mini-adventure has been about 3 hours, being a ranger with a lovely smile that made our way.

As we have not had breakfast too much, and the hike has opened our hunger, we have asked Norman and Ali to take us off the tourist line and take us to a local site of Rwanda. Thus we arrive at Ruhengeri again. The success has been total. We have tried everything, a kind of rare yuka, meat of all kinds, matoke, etc ... (2,050 RWF drinks per couple)

After this, before leaving town, we have approached a textile market We see in front. It is a kind of trail of selling second-hand clothes, although we were curious to see how it includes even a butcher shop in the middle of such a backpack. The clothes seem imported and we found nothing interesting.

We leave Ruhengeri and the Parc National Des Volcanoes to take route to Gisenyi, known for having one of the most beautiful beaches in the interior of Africa and where we will spend the night.

As we approach we begin to see another of the great lakes of Africa, the Kivu Lake, a lake of 2,700 km2 with those 65 km3 of methane gas and 256 km2 of carbon dioxide trapped. It is one of the three explosive lakes known to Nyos and Mdium in Cameroon, which experience violent eruptions every thousand years ending the biological life of the area.

But we are not only on the shore of a deadly lake because of that, Lake Kivu is also sadly known for being the place where most of the victims of the Rwanda genocide were thrown, which we commented on Yesterday as we entered the country. A sad episode in the history of the world.

We are on the border with the Democratic Republic of the Congo, in the African part of the Rift Valley. We arrived at Gisenyi.

One thing that surprised us during yesterday and the whole journey today is that nor we see barefoot people like in Uganda. People have a much better presence, the streets are clean, urbanized, and in general this country seems very developed compared to its bordering surroundings

Kivu Lake has nothing to do with the Bunyonyi or with other lakes in what we have stayed during the whole trip. We are in a kind of "urbanized Rwandan hills" perfectly urbanized and where there are good mansions.

Like yesterday, today we have opted for a very particular motel, the Paradis Malahide, of very simple rooms and not excessively expensive (500 RWF of tip for the trunk, which we have a busted back)

It is in a very good location on the lake, and has its own little piece of beach with sun beds and umbrellas to enjoy the rest of the afternoon. And of course, we do not miss the opportunity to hit a good dip stepping on volcanic remains in the background.

Here, with the time change, it gets dark at 18'00 and we also take the opportunity to approach a small jetty that we see in the distance, attracted by the chants of a small church that should be an evangelist and by the children who have learned too much here the "Bon jeaur, give me money"

Are Rwandan fishermen who are starting to set sail to get their catch of the day. Instead of a boat, what they have are 3 species of canoes joined by sticks and ropes where they will extend their nets. It is the first time that we see something like that, in addition to moving together in solidarity.

We see four boats set sail, and begin to emit songs that sound beautiful at this time with a beautiful sunset. Its prey must be a fish called tilapia, as it is what we see in all the menus of the restaurants in the area. After a while, they get lost on the horizon. They carry a kind of lanterns, so we intuit that they will fall the night.

It's time for a shower and some last laughs, before dinner (RWF 11,050 per couple). We have not commented much but here the "pole pole" is taken at the foot of the letter. In Kenya, in Uganda but especially in Rwanda so far. !! MORE THAN 1 HOUR !! since you order the food until they serve you. Not to mention the disaster of the staff to make an account, return a change or assist you. Anyway, Africa is different, and its times are too.

Tomorrow we hope to cross the border with the RDCongo, which separates us just 10 km. It is a kind of semi-cure that we have between eyebrow and eyebrow for some time. We'll be able?

Ruth, Juve, Isaac and Paula, from Lake Kivu (Rwanda)

EXPENSES OF THE DAY: RWF 13,600 (approx. 16.79 EUR)