Reserve Falealupo Rainforest in Samoa


We haven't slept too well today. The noise of the waves hitting the fale at high tide at night has been the culprit and we did not see the time to leave this little shelter. The morning however has risen with its usual 29ºC, a light breeze and a calm sea.

A basic breakfast sets the tone for the march. Indeed, we believe that the "zumbao" has slept in the car when ...! WE SEE YOU HAVE MADE IT A TABLE LIKE YOUR HOUSE !! Dirty beacons hanging in the trunk, seats full of smelly clothes ... . But where did this guy come from ...


Today's route is much more basic in terms of stops than yesterday. We will complete the perimeter of Savai'i delving a little deeper into what is seen these days on both islands. Really Savai'i and Upolu, in essence, do not differ so much. Lush vegetation, exquisite villas taste for care and order and place really contradictory (lava fields, deep forests, huge cliffs ...). Yes, Savai'i is much more authentic and Upolu is that of business and money.

We face the north road full of beautiful cliffs and an almost impossible road bordering them by the sea side. It looks like a "coast of death" in the Samoan. It really impresses.


In just two days we will travel the third largest island in Oceania (it seems a lie) after Australia and New Zealand. It seems that it could be Viti Levu in Fiji, but really the one that we can travel around Savai'i so fast is the difference between a more developed car and this one, much more virgin. Here there are hardly any cars, fewer tourists and only some travelers ... Of course, cities or in painting.

We arrived to the most extreme and isolated tip of Samoa, the end of the world, the Falealupo Peninsula. There, in addition to a rocky cape, is the Rainforest Falealupo Reserve, an area of ​​great beauty that offers great opportunities for good walks


But our goal is clear since we left this morning, it's about first suspension bridge that we will see in our life and that is used (two by two maximum) by locals in their daily lives. This bridge links two roads with an elevated platform that connects a Garuga Floribunda tree and a Bengal fig tree


Once up, give a little "respect." The flight must be around 30 meters, and it does not seem "excessively safe" even if you feel in a scene of Indiana Jones and the Cursed Temple running away from the natives ...

At this point we want to talk about the famous "Fa'a Samoan" or "Samoan lifestyle". In general, in all the countries that we have been visiting we have found a concept of time that does not fit in the western philosophy that we know. Here things go at their own pace. They dedicate their time to everything, to live their life, to do their daily work. They do not care about money or tourism (in fact this bridge is one of the few that try to encourage this aspect a bit), and in general it is observed that family and religion is of vital importance in the life of this area of the planet

Nevertheless, Within this "model" we have found multiple ways to approach it. Since the kindness and sympathy of the people of Vanuatu, to the pride of the Tonganos, the isolation of the Tuvalenses or the joy of Solomon... until lbequeathed to Samoa


Samoans, and that we are sorry if you think otherwise or have another point of view, They have a hard head like a coconut. The "palangis" (foreigners) are not entirely welcome, not in the sense of tourism, which are equally friendly, but in the sense of exploiting their country. his Fa'a is really desperate, much more than in other places, and it seems that they live ETERNALLY APALOMINATED. They do not know anything as much as you try to explain them and, yes, with a smile, they look at you with the face of "I have not heard anything or I have learned but ... I peel and smile at you".

We continue down our route and stop at another villa, with a kind of business wheels. Here they explain that Children must give their full salary to their parents until they get married, and that, as we already saw, the "chiefs" or "matais" are the ones who control the clans and are in charge of imparting ordinary justice with a code of honor.


When you travel to such distant places, you have to open your mind a lot to try to understand the multiple ways of seeing life, and never try to compare them with ours. This is possibly the greatest wealth of travel, along with the experiences of nature, and not the monuments themselves (this of course, is still subjective). In beautiful and incredible country of Samoa he has taught us that sometimes it still requires a greater effort to open our minds and much patience, to get to understand his philosophy of life ...

While we reflect, we have reached Taga. Here is also the trace of the explosion of Mount Matavanu between 1905 and 1911 that left the lava fields that we saw yesterday in the north. In this part, without the protection of the coral reef, other very similar blowholes have formed to those we saw in Tonga.


They may not be so pretty, to our liking, since there were 5 km of a truly amazing natural effect, but here the few there are reaching heights of 20 meters, as he intends to demonstrate a Samoan espabildo throwing coconuts and making them fly through the air to ask for a tip

Leaving behind the village of Gataivai we surround some small waterfalls formed by the mouth of the river in the ocean. We don't have much time left, since our ferry leaves at 12pm, so without stopping we moved directly to Salelologa, where 1 hour and a short walk will return us to Upolu and from there to Apia again where, with certain discrepancies (it is a fuss) we say goodbye to the Dennis zumbao (580 WST with meals, accommodations, etc ...) of which we will already publish For the forums THAT PEOPLE THERE IF YOU CAN.


A call wakes us from a small "Spanish nap" before dinner. Is Mar, who comes with his diving instructor !! WHAT IS OF CORUÑA !! and says to stay for dinner. Of course, and although tomorrow we get up early to catch our flight, we accept and go about 15-20 minutes walk from the Hotel Elisa where the Yatch Club, a famous local restaurant, especially lively Saturday, where you order the dishes directly at the bar.


Here we learned that the waiter is a "fanfafin", which is what gays are called in this area of ​​the planet. Throughout all the islands we have found a lot, and it has really surprised us because they have a certainly "crazy" attitude. It seems to be, the "coruñes" tells us (you are going to kill us if you read this, but we don't remember the name), which are integrated into society as "errand girls". Curious at least.

The night ends between laughter, anecdotes and future projects, and although we retired before, we do not know how long the night of Mar would last and the "coruñes" settled in Samoa, where it has been 4 months, because the glasses began to fall very easily, hehe ...


Morning quiet day in Nadi, where we surely catch a little boat or something, depending on the flight, and we already have the flights to Tarawa, Kiribati from Monday to Thursday, and the one from Sydney for that same Thursday looking for !! stress !!

We have been answered from the Mary's Motel. We have a reservation with them for the days there and they will help us organize the visits

Gone is Savai'i, its authenticity and traditionality. That island that seems to have stayed stop over time and have no interest in getting started. Those lava flows that interming cracked lava roads cracking under your feet, where the vegetation has become strong and is now born with passionate vitality. That afternoon fall where they play volleyball on an impromptu court, the children return uniformed from the school while they greet you as they pass, in some villas where the lawn is carefully maintained, with houses of thousands of bright colors, while that little bird called "bia" shaped like a kiwi, it runs along the road fleeing the wheels of the 4x4 as it passes

Samoa is not for snorkeling, the best diving or the best corals. Samoa in general is nature, waterfalls, steep coasts and lush coconut trees. It is for its peasants, its colonial houses and its ten km without finding a town submerged in the dense mountain. Samoa is a lifestyle, one perhaps too different from ours ...

Isaac and Paula, with Mar and the "coruñes" from Apia (Samoa)

EXPENSES OF THE DAY: 580 WST (approx 200 EUR)