Getting to know Savai'i in Samoa


New beautiful sunny day in Samoa. It seems that the "ghosts" of the storm of our arrival was no more than that, an isolated night.

The Dennis character seems to be punctual, and just have breakfast and with a mini-backpack prepared (we leave the others in the 'locker' of Elisa) we set course in the 4x4 of the "SWAP Foundation" (an invention of the crazy east) towards the west cost of the island, from where the Ferries depart to Savai'i.

Along the way we get to know a little more about "tribal" performance of Samoa that is implanted to date. Thus we passed through the grave of one of the main "chiefs" who died recently, of the two confrontations that were there, leaving only one currently in Upolu. The chiefs, unlike the family succession system as was the case in the Kingdom of Tonga, they arise from the population for their merits, their businesses, their popularity and their reputation, and they gain people's trust. There is usually one each significant number of people, and below is a kind of "pyramid command."


Meanwhile, we have reached the ferry waiting area. There are different schedules depending on the day of the week, but usually there are usually 2 ferries crossing the island continuously. We we will go to Lady Samoa II. There is also the option of flying from the Apia aerodrome, but this would require renting a car in Savai'i and it would increase us too much the less and less comfortable budget.


The ferry ride is quite placid and barely lasts 1 hour and 10 minutes. Below are the trucks and cars they want to cross and above there are several seats both outside and inside, where people are watching the Olympics, of which, by the way, we have no idea. We have forgotten about TV, the press, the crisis and civilized society ...


We are all? It seems that Dennis is still right, so we started the route through Savaii through the Tafua markets near the port. It is a "strange" market since it mixes trail stands, with crafts, food, people playing bingo and a part of food. Paula does not resist the charm of small tapestries (10 WST)


Above we are curious a kind of "pregnant bun"made with a kind of dough where they introduce a mixture of chicken, onion and other ingredients as a" mince. "


His name seems to be something like "kiki pua" and once boiled in oil it is quite rich, and the first morning hunger kills us (2 WST)

Following along the south coast With a clear destination (the itinerary has been prepared by us fearing the worst), continue to hallucinate us (especially after seeing the panorama on other islands) the good taste, care and order of the Samoan people. Its cut grass, its pebbles placed in the shape of a perimeter, its painted houses, its churches with its bell of claim. The theme of the churches, of which we have commented a lot, is an inveterate fanaticism and a "scourge" for a mentality like ours. Here it is mandatory to give 10% of what you earn, and if you are not a "repudiated", but not only happy with that, weekly you have to give donations and your donation is opened publicly with names and surnames of the family that has done it ...


We stop at a kind of swimming pool that you know Dennis. !! A bullshit !! Let's talk a little about this character. Dennis is a "Z.U.M.B.A.O." With all the letters, he has been trapped in a "permanent madness". He lives surrounded by garbage, and has created some websites and what he calls a SWAP foundation that is still a "pantomime" supported by a poster in its disgusting plantation. As soon as he leaves the house, he puts on that ridiculous police-like outfit and his SWAP sign to look like someone important, and he goes "schooling" with the Samoans saying he has "the instinct of a policeman, a chief's necklace (he puts on a ridiculous necklace worn by the chiefs created by him) and a Samoan heart". In short, one day he is expelled from the country as a liar since the Samoans are looking at him with the face of "Where is this colgao going? ..."

As he is not behaving "too badly", we redirect the route trying to find how to get to one of the great motivations that have led us to Samoa, the Pulemelei Mound. Of course Dennis has no idea of ​​arriving, in case anyone could doubt it, with what we ended up asking in a town where he is supposed to be and they tell us that the jungle has eaten it and that nobody goes there anymore.

With some resignation, we try to find out if there is any way to get there, where is the road and some more information, until we finally achieved our goal. The "chief" of the village offers two relatives of his to join us through the jungle there. It warns us that it is an hour of walking in the sun that is hitting at 31ºC at the moment and without a clear path. WE DON'T DOUBT IT!


It goes without saying that the "hanged" Dennis has not warned us about the need to have to bring trekking clothes and so on, which, there we go in flip flops and shorts up and an umbrella !! for the sun !! . We are already as hung up as he is. Of course, we let him down.

We cross rivers, lush vegetation that has eaten what appears to be an old road, tall coconut trees and complicated rocky areas ...


While one of the nice "guides" opens the way to "machetazo", the other is pending of us so that we are well. The road does not get hard in itself, although flip flops are not the most suitable footwear. For a moment it seems as if the jungle swallows us ...

As we approach our goal, some rest of a more or less recent local visit begins to be seen, and what was a sign of yesteryear eaten by the passage of time


We climb the last meters, the most co-multiplied by the area of ​​volcanic stones in question, leaving aside another sign that puts something like "parking car". Tens of years ago it was accessed here by car. Samoans have no business vision and have lost their main value literally through the jungle


We can see it, we almost touched it ... we are in a kind of mountain top, with beautiful views and surrounded by certain strange stones, remains of what was once the pyramid of Pulemelei, the tallest in Polynesia, 12 meters high.


This structure, together with several ancient tumuli is the oldest legacy of the islands although it seems that archaeologists have not yet agreed on their date of origin. The mystery that surrounds the pyramid is bigger than we can understand, because it is considered the cradle of polynesia. We talk about a structure of about 65x60 square meters built on a stone base that align with the four cardinal points

Today we find food through the vegetation and the jungle but we can still observe the complex and strange basalt stones the size of a ball. It is said that it was the great God Togaloa who built this place and its mystery is of the magnitude of the moais of Easter Island or Nan Madol in Micronesia.


The views from this point are really magnificent, being able to observe the horizon on clear days like today ...

... it would not be surprising if the mysticism of the place comes associated with the same function as the trititlon that we sawl another day in Tongatapu (Tonga) whose aims were to guide the vessels to great distances along the right path

As we considered Rock Island in Palau (Micronesia), the Vavau archipelago (Tonga) and Marovo Lagoon in Solomon Islands Like the three great wonders of nature in this area, it is very possible that the three great mysteries and vestiges of the past of these islands come given by the Tonga trititlon, he Pulemelei mound here in Samoa and hopefully we can access in the future, Nan Mandol in Micronesia

If it really served to guide boats, we hope they had good spyglasses, because the stones are enormously heavy. Paula, are we coming back?


The descent is equally complex, and we are also dissected. Our "friends" are really great, and fast One climbs on a coconut tree and throws us several coconuts that serve as refreshment and food for the return. !!What a great idea!!


Paulaaaa! Leave me something! But there are coconuts for everyone! Well, I want two! There you are greedy!


The adventure ends where it began (and propinilla for the boys, 10 WST), and Dennis, who has not even moved to join us, awaits us to follow our route. As next are the waterfalls of Afu Aau, a kind of waterfall that falls on a natural pool, you told us to cool off a little before continuing


After talking to the people who "keep" this place and tell them "how great chief he is" (people freaks out), he starts running like a "dummy" into the water to wet his feet. Really, this guy is not right in the head, some nuts are missing than others. Anyway, we have no choice but to endure it. Drive, drive well ...

We have taken the route north. As tomorrow we have the ferry at 12pm, in case we were in a hurry, we have decided to do Pulemelei and the southeast area today and now we are heading towards the most tourist and known area. We take a couple of regressions along the way (4.80 WST)

Buses are also seen in Savai'i and we really believe that it would not be the same landscape without them, even in the most inhospitable places we had not seen before in Upolu


We arrived at the "tourist" of the day. Swim with turtles? It's listening to the word turtles and leaving Paula like a rocket.


We are in a kind of natural pools run by a family, which has been responsible for maintaining a few families of turtles, so that today it has become one of the main attractions of Savai'i

Paula, where are you? Ahhh, you're already making new friends ...


This is like going to the retreat to feed the ducks. Here the turtles know "more than rita" and as soon as they see someone they go around the pool to look for their food. It is really possible to swim with them, but only the bite that one of them gives Isaac in one of the small fingers takes away the desire, hahaha


As in all species, there is always one stronger than another, which if necessary passes over


And not to mention they eat everything you throw at them. Anyway ... for who has tired of retirement, although Paula leaves the sea happy.

What really causes sensation, a few kilometers away, the lava fields and the ruins of Afio Mai


Between the last volcanic eruptions of Mount Matavanu occurred on the island in 1905 and 1911 whose remains are completely hidden in the vegetation but there is still an area north of the island where the lava fields recall the tragedy. Here we can see a church that was completely overwhelmed by the laundry and leaves today an ezpeluznante image


So far life has made its way. The trees have broken through the lava fields as well as the water, creating curious caves or caverns in this apocalyptic place.


The day has been intense and we reached theto the northernmost area of ​​Savai'i to try to stay in Manase. Last day in Upolu we saw some typical fales that have become famous in Samoa. Today we are going to sleep in one of them by the sea. It can be a beautiful experience to end the day.


In a kind of local tasca we take the opportunity to see a beautiful sunset taking those mojitos (17 WST) that we miss. This area of ​​the island is really beautiful, and very different from the rest of what we have seen these days in Samoa

The dinner, very scarce, is made in commune. The "crazy" Dennis do not know where he will sleep, but we intuit that he will do it in the car itself.


We have decided next week. We need some stress now. We have flights from Monday to Thursday for Tarawa, Kiribati, one of Isaac's dream destinations with everything related to World War II. We will sleep the day after tomorrow in Nadi and Kiribati in a Marys Motel (there are hardly 2 or 3 options)

After that, on Thursday we will try to get to Sydney to continue our adventure.

We have our fale ready to sleep. Tomorrow will be another day. Family, friends, readers, we are still great ...

Isaac and Paula, from Manase in Savai'i (Samoa)

EXPENSES OF THE DAY: 33.80 WST (approx. 11.65 EUR) and GIFTS: 10 WST (approx. 3.45 EUR)