A milonga in Buenos Aires


"Life is a milonga and you have to know how to dance, that there is plenty left on the track that loses its rhythm. Life is a milonga and you have to know how to dance, because it is sad to be sitting while others dance ..." (To that old little girl who always knows how to dance in life)

It's been almost 1 year and a half since my adventures brought me from that exciting trip through Argentina, Uruguay and Antarctica 2009. Long and hard I remembered that sixth continent, the white continent, even with the first videos on the web in the articles Videos of a dream (I), (II) and (III), but it was today, before getting into new adventures, when I began to remember and reread the day I landed on a new continent for me, and that city that received me so well, Buenos Aires. It was him DAY 2 of the trip, a trip that I can never forget.

Touring Buenos Aires in 24 hours is not easy. The impressive Av. July 9, one of the largest in the world and its obelisk Remembering the Argentine Independence Day in 1816 they welcome. He Colon Theater, their beers, the Corrientes Av.

... their spectacular meats and wines (one of the best meals I've ever had in my life) ...

… the May Plaza, the seat of the Executive Power (the pink House), he Boca neighborhood, the picturesque "Caminito Street"…

Madero Port, Palermo me Recoletos, would be many of the places you would visit on that day.

But a lower class neighborhood, San Telmo, they say that it was the one that gave rise to one of the musical genres that most caught my attention on any of my trips, the Tango, initially only musical and later danced.

And is that Buenos Aires is the world capital of Tango. It is present in every corner, stage, way of dressing and acting of people, strongly rooted in the customs of the capital. It is such that we cannot say that we are facing traditional folk music, but that we are facing a music that combines composition, dance, interpretation coupled with intentions, rhythms and melodies of poetry poems that are sung.

That night I was approaching one of the multiple night shows that shelters Buenos Aires, specifically a Milonga, since although outwardly they are known as a folk music genre Rioplatense (from Argentina and Uruguay) at the moment their conception is more focused on those places, clubs or gay halls where Buenos Aires dance to the beat (usually more austere and picturesque) and even where there are Tango classes Skeptical of me, I did not expect anything beyond a tourist prepared for those organized groups to take out the rooms.

!! How wrong I was !! While everything that surrounds the show is well prepared, what my eyes saw was one of the most wonderful experiences created by the people that I could enjoy anywhere. I was before a danced and sung sensuality game that mixed nostalgic songs with a touch of merengue machismo.

TANGOS AND MILONGAS DE BUENOS AIRES: The Argentine capital offers the traveler a multitude of tango shows with all its glamor, high level and prices. You can also access the classic milongas, places with less luxurious dances, usually frequented by the typical Buenos Aires. If I returned, I would probably choose to find a house (which there are also) where it is possible to have dinner enjoying a more unique and picturesque show.


The old warehouse: On Av. Independencia y Balcarce, San Telmo.
Carlos Gardel corner: In Carlos Gardel 3200, Abasto.
The Tango Window: In Balcarce 431, San Telmo
Piazolla Tango: In Florida 165 - San Martín 170, San Telmo
Mr. Tango: In Av. Vieytes 1655, Barracas
Michelangelo: In Balcarce 433, San Telmo
Tango flavor: In J.D. Perón 2535, Centro
El Querandí: In Peru 302, Congress


Tortoni coffee: In Av. De Mayo 829, Centro
Ideal Confectionery: In Suipacha 384, Downtown
South Bar: In the United States 299, San Telmo
The Chip Tango: In Armenia 1366, Palermo
Crazy Berretín: In Gurruchaga 1946, Palermo
Tango Complex: In Av. Belgrano 2608, Center * Where I was that day
Parakultural Canning Hall: In Scalabrini Ortiz 1331, Palermo
Cathedral: In Sarmiento 4006, Almagro
Torquato Tasso Cultural Center: In Defense 1575, San Telmo
Bella Vista Tango Club: In Av. Francia 710, Bella Vista

On many occasions, attempts have been made to reconstruct the history of Tango but no agreement has been reached on the date of his birth, as there is no written information. It was supposed to be in the 1880s when music and dance merged With influences from the African candome, the Cuban habanera, the Andalusian tango, the chotis and the merengue mixed with payadas puebleras and Creole milongas.

What is clear is that the nation of the lowest social class, including immigrants, called Creole-Immigrant, composed of artisans, laborers, sailors ... who began to group, appearing from 1900 the first quartets and quintets.

If something was clear to me watching that performance, which theatrically explained the evolution of tango from its origins to the present, is that Tango is a couple game. The fogosidad of the Argentine woman is fundamental, making the show a true play PICARA while fun.

He man, meanwhile, is the one drive and shelter the woman, which is carried away under the protection of the latter, all under broad choreographic possibilities while INCREDIBLE SKILLS, and even high improvisation skills of the protagonists. Átonito, I dismiss the show. The bottle of wine has also done its thing.

It may be too many hours but with the multitude of cheap flights to Buenos Aires that exist today, delve into the origins of one of the most special experiences I've lived and contemplate a Tango in person, is something that I recommend to anyone.

And, why not take advantage of the trip to enter that country unknown to many Spaniards yet, Uruguay? Arrive by ferry to Montevideo It's easy and comfortable, get lost from the world in Cabo Polonio is to get into a true Tim Burton story, eat grilled whip shark in Punta del Diablo or rest where the Río de La Plata merges into the Atlantic, Punta del Este.

Once the Getaway to Bucharest and Transylvania 2011 and the Getaway to Stonehenge and Bath 2011, and still waiting to finish the stories of trip to Maldives 2011 (we will do it in the next dates), we will embark on new adventures in the next few days. Until then, although virtually, a hug for everyone ...

... from the capital of tango, Buenos Aires. Isaac